What is a geisha: beyond makeup and mystery

When we hear the word geisha, images of women in kimonos, white faces, red lips and delicate movements come to mind. But what is a geisha really? What is its role in the culture of Japan?

Geisha have for centuries been symbols of elegance, art, and tradition, but they have also been surrounded by myths and misunderstandings. In this article we are going to discover their true essence: what it means to be a geisha, how they are formed, what their social role is and how they survive today.

The origin of geisha dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), in entertainment districts called hanamachi. Interestingly, the first geisha were men who animated gatherings with music and poetry. Over time, women stood out more in this role and became the true protagonists.

For centuries, geisha were central figures in art, music, and dance. After World War II, their numbers declined dramatically, but they remained guardians of traditions such as the Japanese tea ceremony and the use of instruments such as the shamisen. Today they survive in traditional districts such as Gion, in Kyoto, where maikos and geikos can still be seen walking along cobblestone streets illuminated by lanterns.

A geisha’s path begins at the okiya (geisha house), where young women enter as apprentices. There they receive housing, education and clothing, in exchange for years of dedication.

Future geisha study disciplines such as:

• Traditional Japanese dance (nihon buyo)
• Music with shamisen and taiko drum
• Tea Ceremony
• Poetry, calligraphy and singing
• Art of Conversation and Hospitality in Teahouses (ochaya)

An apprentice geisha is called a maiko. When she completes her training and becomes a full geisha, she performs the erikae (“neck change”), a ceremony in which she changes the style of her kimono and hairstyle.

The term mizuage, which in the past referred to a rite of passage, has been the subject of controversy and misinterpretation. Currently, the important thing is the ceremony of the debut as a professional artist.

In Kyoto, geisha are called geiko, a term that highlights their role as “women of art.”

Maiko are young apprentices, recognizable by their more colorful kimonos, hairstyles adorned with kanzashi (accessories), and more striking makeup.

They are those who, once trained, decide to work independently, without depending on an okiya

In hot spring areas (onsen), there were geisha dedicated to cheering up visitors, although they have often been mistakenly confused with other types of entertainment.

Geisha are guardians of cultural heritage: they keep alive dances, music, and rituals that would otherwise be lost.

Their main role is to liven up meetings in teahouses with music, dance and elegant conversation. They are not mass artists, but elite hostesses.

Today, many geisha participate in public festivals in cities such as Kyoto or Tokyo, allowing tourists and locals to get up close and personal with this legacy.

A geisha’s kimono is a work of art in itself, accompanied by an elaborate obi (sash) and different accessories depending on the season or event.

The white face with oshiroi, the eyebrows and eyes outlined in black and red, and the lips painted partially or totally depending on the rank, are part of a visual code full of meaning.

The hairstyle varies according to the stage of training. Maiko wear elaborate hairstyles with flower and kanzashi ornaments, while geiko prefer more sober styles and traditional wigs.

From novels such as Memoirs of a Geisha (inspired in part by the life of Mineko Iwasaki) to films and documentaries, geisha have fascinated the entire world.

The kimono, makeup, and geisha accessories have inspired designers in Japan, the United States, and Europe, leaving their mark on fashion and art.

Today, thousands of tourists visit Gion in Kyoto in hopes of seeing a maiko walking. This has generated debates about the balance between tradition and tourism.